New versions of some old favourites - Alder and Lilou!

I've always proclaimed my love for the Grainline Studios Alder Shirt dress. It's a great pattern that needs little tweaking to achieve a nice fit and it is incredibly satisfying to make! All those different stages and lots of lovely top-stitching (Yippee!). I had always planned to make a third one to add to my collection (1 and 2 are here), but I wasn't sure on the fabric choice. I had an idea that I wanted a blue cotton chambray, but Hong Kong wouldn't oblige and I couldn't find what I wanted. 

It wasn't until I saw this broiderie anglais fabric in a shop in Jordan that I knew I'd found my third Alder. The combination of the blue chambray - ish background and the red embroidered circles really stood out in the shop, so I just had to have it. This fabric is far more expensive than most of my HK finds at $90HKD per yard! But the shop worker was in a 'good deal' kind of mood, so actually sold it to me for $70HKD per yard (bargain!). 

I decided whilst in the shop to purchase some matching lightweight cotton to act as a trim - I figured it would be difficult to buttonhole on top of the embroidery. This was an inspired decision and I used it on the inner collar stand, the under collar and the outer button stand as well as the pockets. I chose not to interface my collar or collar stand as it would show through the fabric. This was actually a great idea. On my first wearing as part of Me Made May '15 on Saturday, the collar was soooooo comfortable. The softness makes it more slouchy and adds a level of casualness to the dress.  

The second pattern that I have a well know love for is the Tilly and the Buttons Lilou. It has been through a rigorous testing and fitting process over the last 3 i've made that makes it fit like a glove.

On my recent trip to Tokyo I picked up some beautiful Japanese wave fabric (100% cotton). I wanted something traditional that would remind me of the trip. This fabric was a bargain, although I can't remember the exact price. I realised pretty soon after returning home that I didn't want to use this over a whole dress (too many waves), so I set about finding a complimentary navy cotton. I trawled the fabric shops and markets of Hong Kong with no success. It's a very specific type of blue, so I wasn't surprised. Luckily I had booked a short break to Singapore at Easter, which meant only one thing...SPOTLIGHT! I took my sample and within moments of entering the fabric section, I had found a match - perfect planning! 

I decided to use the plain navy on the top and the waves on the skirt. It does mean that I have some wave left for another make :) The make itself was very simple, however I decided to substitute the normal gathered skirt for a box pleated one - I wanted to show off the waves. Overall, it turned out pretty well, although the navy fabric does show off deodorant marks really easily, but I guess that's something I can't do anything about.  

I'm still a massive fan of both these patterns and see more on the horizon when a fabric takes my fancy. 

Which patterns are you obsessed with?

My first skirt in ages and it's a Nautical chic Grainline Studios Moss!

So, this weekend I made this little number! After a week of making a complete fail garment (the less said about it the better!), I decided to go for something that has some challenges in the manufacture; namely the fly zip, but should be less challenging in the fit - it has got to be easy to fit a mini skirt! 

I read last week that Jen @ Grainline Studios had revamped her Moss Skirt pattern and released it on PDF, so it was a no-brainer to purchase and download it right away. I hadn't intended to make it this weekend, but the knot print fabric was calling out to me. Vigilant readers out there will remember this from my most recent shopping blog - it was an absolute steal from Sham Shui Po. I actually found this in a cardboard box outside one of the wholesalers on Yu Chau Street and for a princely sum of $25 HKD! Because they come bundled up, I couldn't make out how much fabric I was buying, but I loved the print, so took a risk. The fabric once unrolled was in two long strips. The strips were selvage to selvage and measured approximately 60cm each - plenty for a lovely mini skirt. The fabric itself is cotton twill with a little bit of stretch, so pretty much perfect! 

I decided to make the shorter version of the skirt, which meant less pieces to cut out, however when I was cutting I decided to add on 4cm to the length-just in case I preferred it slightly longer. The fly zip was certainly a challenge. I've not done one of these since my university days, so I certainly needed to read the instructions carefully. I didn't need to look at the photo instructions though, so I was pretty pleased with myself. I used a little metal zip that i've had floating around for a while - it worked out pretty well as you can see. 

I actually chopped off the extra hem that I added as I much preferred this as a short mini skirt. I even managed to do a 3cm hem, which added to the weight at the bottom. The skirt now hangs really well. 

Unfortunately I didn't manage to pattern match the front (not enough fabric), but the craziness of the print means that this wasn't that important. 

Overall, a really satisfying make. I really enjoyed the different processes, such as the pockets and the fly zip and it was awesome to have a garment completed in an afternoon. I think this will be getting some wear this summer and definitely in me-made-may '15! 

Planning my summer makes...

With the summery weather starting in Hong Kong, I've been thinking a lot about the garments I would like to add to my wardrobe. I have already added some summer garments in anticipation of my Bangkok and Singapore holidays. My most recent Lilou (here) will be perfect and both of my Alders were made for this purpose too. In addition to those, I have made a 4th and much improved Sorbetto.

 You can see the neckline of it here and a little view of the fabric (sorry, no time for modelled shots). On my recent trip to Tokyo for a school trip, I decided to sneak to a fabric store in Shinjuku (Called Okadaya and it's amazing!) I picked up this stunning little Liberty print lawn fabric that is actually made in Japan. It was approximately $160 HKD for a metre and a half (what a bargain!) I added more than an inch to the length of the Sorbetto as my previous ones weren't quite long enough to look good with shorts. The making of this top is so simple, although attaching that much binding does get tedious. 

What to make next is the big question. I certainly need some knitted dresses. I've had the Colette Moneta pattern taped together for a while, but never quite settled on a fabric. I'm still on the look out. I've been looking online, but with some steep delivery charges to Hong Kong, I'm a bit reluctant to order. So if anyone knows a good website for knits, I would appreciate the knowledge! 

In addition to my 'kinda' planned Moneta, I hope to add a further Lilou (I also bought fabric for this in Japan) and another Anna dress from the rose print fabric I picked up in Sham Shui Po over Easter. I've also got another Sorbetto planned with my new improved pattern (You're going to love the fabric for this little number!) 

The last addition that I definitely want to make to my wardrobe is some sleeveless shirts. I love making my Alder's so much that I can't wait to make more shirts. However, my desire to only wear skirts/dresses with leggings underneath means that more Alder's does not make for totally comfortable summer attire. I've seen some stunning ones in Gap (super thin cottons) that would be great, so i'm now on the look out for suitable fabric. I've downloaded the Grainline Studios Archer (simple choice) as my pattern, so i'm ready to make! 

Photographs of my makes to follow soon - time for sewing and modelling needed!   

Two Alders for the price of one...

After a few busy weeks at work, which included a 9 day school trip to Japan; I have finally found time to blog! I've managed to do some selfish sewing during this time and these are the outcomes! 

After making my husband a shirt for Christmas day, i've been looking for another opportunity to make a shirt. The process and and the amount of different steps makes them really enjoyable to make. I started to shop around for a pattern I liked way back in February. I eventually settled on the Grainline Studios Alder. This shirtdress is much blogged about, so I sought lots of advice and opinions before setting off on my Alder journey. 

whilst doing my frequent browsing on fabric websites, I stumbled upon these beauties from modes4u.com. I loved the japanese origami pattern of the fabric above and the birds below really stood out. Both are lovely and summery prints on a lightweight quilting cotton, so I just had to order them! 

Tracing the pattern off and sticking together the 51 pages of this pattern were very long processes and meant that the manufacturing of my Alder's was very drawn out and done in many different sessions. I've only ever made one Grainline Studios pattern before, which was the Linden sweatshirt, so I had to check sizes carefully. I pretty much fit into the measurements provided, so I just cut a straight '12'. 

The sewing of my first Alder (the origami one) was very satisfying and mostly done in one session. I left the buttonholes, armholes and hem for another occasion. I stuck to all the details of the pattern and was pleased with the outcome. I made some small fitting adjustments to the waist as it was quite baggy, but other than that the fit is pretty good. The loose style means that it's going to be lovely to wear in the sticky Hong Kong summer. 

No sooner had I finished my first Alder, I knew I wanted to make a second. I just love doing all the different stages and I absolutely love doing topstitching (strange maybe?!) I made some changes to the pattern, including the shape of the collar stand (more rounded to allow for larger buttons) and the collar (rounded shape instead of the original points). I took approximately 2cm off the waist seam in order to match up with the fitting that I did on the original. 

As you can see, the birds really are stunning! The exaggerated grain of the fabric is also a nice addition. 

As with the original, this Alder went together like a dream. I'm so pleased that I decided to make this pattern up, because it's awesome! The outcomes will certainly be a staple of my summer wardrobe and will probably be in my suitcase for my upcoming trip to Singapore. 

I wonder how long I need to wait before making a third one? 

My Grainline Studio Linden Sweatshirt...

A hectic pre-Christmas schedule meant that I did not get chance to blog about all my makes during the month of December. You may remember the difficult decision I had to make about the sweatshirt fabric I wanted (see here). As you can see, one of my chosen ones is the ever so on trend Burgundy, plait patterned, quilted, sweatshirt jersey! (Please note that Pantone's colour of the year for 2015 is Marsala, or to you and me; Burgundy!)I also went for a soft cotton ribbing in the same colour. 

I chose to make the traditional sweatshirt version and I decided to cut all the pieces flat, without a fold in the fabric to ensure that the plaited pattern stayed straight throughout. Although this was time consuming, it was certainly worth it. My advice to others is, don't try to wash and dry 5 yards of quilted sweatshirt material in one go, it takes over your whole flat! 

So, onto the making part. Grainline patterns have brilliantly clear instructions, so I found the putting together and sewing very simple. It was a very quick make. The ribbing had just the right amount of stretch to make the cuffs and neck/waist bands fit perfectly. The only issue was the thickness of the seams when joining the ribbing, but with a little bit of pulling through my overlocker, it did work. I would say the sewing was quicker than the cutting process!

As for the finished garment, the fit is on the larger size, despite following the finished garment measurements. However for the type of sweatshirt I was looking for, it does the job. I wore it over the festive period in the UK and Austria layered over a checked shirt and it looked great! I'm pleased with the fabric, it is very warm and soft. However, I have noticed some pilling already on the under sleeves. For the price, I can't complain!  At $60HKD a yard, I think it was good value for money. 

I now need to wait until it's a little colder in Hong Kong to wear this sweatshirt. I will certainly be pulling it out when I go skiing in Japan. I recommend the Grainline Linden without question for a quick and easy sweatshirt pattern that guarantees a nice shape. I think i'm going to make the short sleeved version soon as this will probably be worn more in Hong Kong. 

Too many Knitted fabric choices?!

I finally made the trip to Sham Shui Po to look at my knitted fabric options for the various projects that I have in mind. There are far too many choices and I went to two shops I had seen on a previous trip. The first shop was Kam Fung Trading Company, which stocks so many different knitted fabrics. This includes sweatshirt knits and t-shirt weight jersey's, which are on my list to buy. I'm primarily looking for stripes as you can see from my photographs, but I was drawn in by the cotton, quilted sweatshirt fabrics. I love this one below, which is a plaited effect!

The other fabric shop I went to was 'Bowa', which was next door to the other knitted shop on Yu Chau Street. This shop stocks lots of knitted jerseys that are primarily plain. They also sell a lot of different ribbed jerseys, which is also on my 'to buy' list.  The ones below are a mix of cotton(95%) and spandex(5%) and have a nice width of rib suitable for collars and cuffs of sweatshirts (ideal for my Linden!). 

My upcoming projects - Negroni and Linden

On my sewing table I have two projects waiting for me. One is my first dabble into menswear. I have decided to make a Colette Negroni for my husband. I've had a 'great' idea to make festive garments for each of us as we are heading to the UK for a family Christmas. I'm making a skirt for myself - probably a picnic blanket one. I figured that a shirt would be good for my hubby. 

So in preparation I have decided to do a test shirt. I bought some $10HKD a yard checked fabric from Sham Shui Po to try with. I've got it all cut out ready to go. Slightly nervous about it, but the instructions seem pretty clear. I have made a shirt before during my degree, so I'm hoping my memories of that returns!

The second project waiting for me is the new Linden sweatshirt by Grainline Studios. I have yet to make one of their patterns. With winter approaching, I was super happy when they released this gem! I took a trip to the 'knitted fabric' part of Sham Shui Po a couple of weeks back, but didn't purchase anything. The options we're overwhelming, so I need to donate a lot of time to the selection process. I saw so many different knits, including copious amounts of sweatshirt knits, I might have to make a few!  I will blog my experiences when I've been. The challenge of buying knitted fabrics is always an interesting one. 

Chances are that I will end up adding other projects to my list, but that's an exciting prospect! Watch this space...