Sunday, 17 May 2015

My first Deer and Doe Sureau and my first True Bias Southport...

After my blogging drought, I decided to blog a 2 for 1. The first new me make is my Deer and Doe Sureau. I had planned to make one of these a long time ago in a lovely duck print, but I met so many problems with the fabric that I decided to put it on hold. A new opportunity arose is this blue and white seersucker cotton. I bought this very cheaply from the Lanes in Central, Hong Kong for $20HKD a yard, so it was great for a trial fabric. 

The whole making process was really easy. I actually cut this dress out and sewed it in one session (go me!). The fastening (underarm invisible zip) was a piece of cake to install (i'm a bit of a zip expert) and everything went smoothly. I used a white bias binding around the armholes, which again went in easily. 

I went for a size 44, which fits in most places. I don't like how the neckline is gaping slightly, so this is something to look at in the future. I also didn't pattern match brilliantly on this and the centre panel is totally off, which makes in unwearable in my book, but it has worked as a fantastic toile. I plan to take a 1cm wedge out of the neckline and also to raise the armhole (my bra does sneak out) and lose a little from the shoulder. I have a lovely little indigo linen in my stash that is probably going to be my next Sureau, so watch out for that! 

In my search of a summery, casual addition to my suitcase for my summer holiday, I also decided to test run the True Bias Southport. This is a brand new pattern and there are not too many examples of this in the blogging world. I liked the casual style and the real button stand down the front. I did have a few questions over whether the style would suit me before I made it. 

I chose to use up some red and blue checked cotton that I bought in Sham Shui Po (again for $20HKD a yard). Again, this make was super easy. I enjoyed the process of making the fastening and adding the binding to both the neckline and armholes. The fit is actually quite good around those areas. I've done a pretty good job on the pattern matching here, as the checks do match up across the front. I chose to make my own cord for the drawstring, which was a satisfying job.

Overall, i'm not 100% sold on the style of this dress. I feel that the neckline is cut too low for me and I might feel self conscious wearing it in Hong Kong for sure. It may be able to solve a beachwear problem though because it's so easy to wear. I have planned to make an adjusted version of this dress in my previous post, so i'll see if I get round to that.  

Have you tried any of these patterns? What did you think of them after the first fit?


  1. Hi Sophie - its a shame about the Sureau but at least you have learnt things for the next one. Do you need to do a High Bust Adjustment to stop the gaping? - I have read a few blog posts about this but never took any notice for myself (I always need a SBA) so might be something to look into.
    As for the Southport I love the fabric but have read a few bloggers say it's too low cut for comfort. I think you could wear this style if you raised the neckline and then you'd feel more comfortable. slightly annoying when you spend so much time making something that you are not sure you will wear at the end of the process. Luckily its a fun thing to do and you usually learn something along the way.
    Looking forward to seeing you in July x

  2. I've actually made some adjustments to my Sureau pattern and have cut it out in another fabric already (I found myself with time this weekend). I just folded out a wedge from the pattern and re drew it. Hopefully it solves the problem. I've read the blogs about full bust adjustments, but i went with my existing pattern cutting knowledge on this one.

    I'm going to wait off on the Southport as I think there is too much to change without doing a second toile. I'm trying to get my wardrobe in summer mode and fill gaps. I also have a dress to make for Form 4 graduation, so i'd better get on with that ASAP.

  3. LOVE your Southport dress... for the record if you decide it's just not wearable then fire it on over to me as I'd wear that in a heartbeat. Another pattern I have my eye on but my to-do list is FAR too long as it is.

  4. Thanks Marie! I appreciate your comments. My Southport still remains in my wardrobe, but it hasn't been on my back yet. There's still time. This is a satisfying make, especially with the real buttons/buttonholes. I used pre-made bias, which made the process a lot quicker and easier.