My Fancy Tiger Crafts Sailor Top!

Whilst planning my Sureau (something i'm not rushing), I decided that I needed to quench my sewing thirst with a quick project. I chose to make the Fancy Tiger Crafts Sailor Top. I have seen it being made quite a lot on the blogs that I read and thought it would be nice addition to my wardrobe. Because my prize haul of fabric has been staring at me, I opted to use one of them. I decided to use the paint printed viscose I bought from The Village Haberdashery. Not only has this fabric got nice drape, it's opaque. This makes it great for a spring top (no layering required!). 

The pattern is only made up of 5 pieces as the front and back pieces are exactly the same. There is a front and back yoke as well as  the sleeve and sleeve facing. I hadn't used a sleeve facing before, but the finish looks nice and it allows the sleeve to sit really flat. There is a deep hem also, which provides weight to the whole top. My only issue with the making process was the lack of notches - this caused a problem when gathering the front, back and sleeves to attach to the yokes. I stuck with it and ended up with even gathers. 

I had one issue with my completed top, the front yoke was gaping. After fiddling with it whilst wearing it, I decided to make a small fold at the centre front. I used two buttons to secure the fold and add a little bit of a styling detail. I'm really pleased with the finished product. The buttons are really cute and totally solve the gaping. 

My first Megan dress...

After my victory of yesterday (still very excited!), I have found time to day to share my first attempt at the Megan dress by Tilly and the Buttons. This dress is from her 'Love at first stitch' book and is a fairly straight forward make. I decided to use some lovely balloon fabric that I bought from modes4u.com to make it, so it has a celebration theme - Hence the photograph with the Christmas tree again! 

The main skills that this dress teaches you is an invisible zip fastening (which I use on most of my makes, so not a learnt skill here), inserting sleeves (quite straight forward on this dress actually) and an open ended dart (a new one on me, but very easy - just don't sew into a point). The open ended dart is designed to give a softer look to the shaping than a traditional dart. Tilly gives great guidance on doing this in her instructions, so no problems there! I decided to add lining to the bodice pieces to avoid using a facing. This worked well and was joined in at the armholes when the sleeve was added.  

In regards to the finished article, it's certainly well made. I'm please with my pattern matching, zip and sleeves - three things that can be dodgy! However, i'm not convinced that this shape of dress suits me. I managed to fit the dress at the back neck as this was gaping, so the size is correct, I think it is just the silhouette that i'm unhappy with. I think my curves are just too prominent! I certainly think that i'm more of a Lilou girl (see here) and should stick with this shape as much as possible. Next task is to do a pattern hack involving the shape of the Lilou and the sleeves of the Megan; wish me luck! 

P.S. Ignore my disgruntled face, It's just an unfortunate photograph!

A second Lilou dress...

After saying I was taking a break from Tilly and the Buttons makes, I was at a loose end, so I decided to create a second Lilou! The first one turned out ok, however I did need to take it in at the back, so I chose to make a few alterations to the pattern this time. I took 2.5cm off the centre back seam and also took 1cm off the front waist dart to improve the overall shape and fit. I also decided to move the straps over 1cm towards the centre back as it was not sitting perfectly flat. 

Once I had made the changes to the pattern, the cutting and sewing process was quite quick and I managed to finish it in about 4 hours. The fully lined bodice is a delight to do now that I have experience. I chose a white cotton lining as I figured that a self lining might show through. 

Overall, I am really pleased with the final garment. The fit is loads better than Lilou number 1 and the navy and white gingham fabric matches my capsule wardrobe colours! My only issue is that the checks don't match up precisely at the back zip. However, this is just a small detail that can be solved by wearing a cardigan. To be honest I don't think the general public would notice at all, it's just me being picky!

I have several work's in progress now, so i had better pick up the pace with my making and stop getting distracted by quick and simple projects! With Christmas garments and gifts to make, it's going to be a busy few weeks!

My Fifties Mortmain by Gather...

After two lovely public holidays here in Hong Kong, it isn't surprising that I've done a little bit of sewing! I've had the Michael Miller - Jug or not? fabric sitting their looking at me, so I decided to make my third Mortmain by Gather. The previous ones turned out pretty well, however I decided to make some small adjustments to the pattern. 

The bust darts on the front were about 2cm too high in the spot and stripe version of this dress. I decided to split the pattern and lengthen it above the dart (I remembered to do the front and back!). I hoped that this would improve the overall fit because I do have a long body. I also decided to alter the skirt from the box pleats of the original to a gather. Because the fabric is so bold, I was worried about lining up the pleats correctly. I think that the finished garment proves that I made some good decisions. The silhouette with the gathered skirt is really flattering for my figure and I am now very happy with the dart position. 

I really love making this pattern up and would certainly recommend it to anyone who is confident at lining up seams. This is very important with this dress in particular due to the waist panel.

This dress is going to be a great addition to both my summer and winter wardrobe. With Hong Kong winters not being the coldest i've experienced, it will certainly be warm enough and could be teamed with tights and boots if I get chilly! 

   

My second Sorbetto!

After the success of my first Colette Sorbetto, I decided to make the pattern up in a different type of fabric. This time I went for a cotton/silk mix in a lovely ditsy print. Although the fabric was more difficult to cut, the top came together quite well. 

I made the decision not to use bias binding made from the floral fabric as it would have moved all over the place when cutting and folding. I had a lovely roll of red gingham bias binding from a previous project that I chose to use. I love the effect! I went for a hidden binding, so you shouldn't see it when wearing it, I just get the pleasure of seeing it on the hanger! 

Because the fabric is more fluid it lends itself better to being tucked in, so looks great with a gathered skirt. I think if I were to make the top again in a similar fabric, I would decrease the size of the armholes and neck hole because I think that they stretched slightly during manufacture. 

I think i'm going to pause my Sorbetto making and try something different. I have decided to try a Tilly and the Buttons picnic blanket skirt, so watch out for that! 

Colette Sorbetto - Part 1 - Toile and Alterations

Ok, so last night I started the process of making a Colette Sorbetto (click to take you to their page). It's a very simple downloadable pattern. It was a lot quicker to stick together than The Mathilde, but that's not surprising as there are only 2 pattern pieces! After a quick stick, I took some measurements and decided on the size I was going to make. I went for a 12 (american size) as it seemed like it would make a spacious summer top, which is very necessary in Hong Kong. 

Because the top is so easy to make and doesn't require much fabric, I decided to make a toile. This seemed sensible because I don't have enough of my new fabrics in case anything goes wrong. I decided to use some lovely red poly-cotton that I had left over from a Red Riding Hood fancy dress outfit (i'll leave it at that...). After sewing the centre pleat, darts, side seams and shoulder seams, voila, I had a toile of my Sorbetto. I tried it on straight away as I was very excited that I had just made a top in about 30 minutes! 

There were a few simple alterations I noted straight away - The dart was sitting exactly on the bust point, which isn't the most flattering, so I decided to make it 1cm shorter on my paper pattern. In addition to this, there was a slight amount of bagging under the arm and although this should be a fairly baggy top, it just wasn't right. I knew that adding bias binding to finish the top would enhance this. I decided to measure in 0.5cm from the armhole and remove a small triangle from the pattern. Hopefully this will solve the problem. Lastly, the whole thing was just too short. I have this whole long body thing going on, so I wasn't surprised. I decided to add 6cm to the length. I went for this much just in case. I can after all just cut some off if it is too long. 

I altered my pattern and am now ready to make my first real Sorbetto. I've decided on another nautical print, but before I can get started I need to do some shopping today. 

On my list I have...

• Red, white and matching machine thread to my fabrics. 
• White and navy bias binding (if possible). 
• 7 x 15mm buttons for my Mathilde.
• Some white invisible zips.
• A new pot of pins.
• A Bias binding maker. 

I am going to try Pottinger Street in Central for most of these goodies, I now that I can get most of what I need there. I will then go to Tailoring and Alteration in Causeway Bay to check out their bias binding makers. 

Fingers crossed that this is a quick process and I can get home to sew!